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Introduction to Lovebirds
By Roland G. Dubuc
These small parrots are popular with both companion bird owners and Professional Aviculturists
The African Love Bird is unusual in that some species are relatively new to the world of Aviculture, while
others are very old. In fact, several species were not even discovered until this century, yet others have been kept by man
for over four hundred years. Love Birds, whose Latin or scientific name of the genus is Agapornis, acquired their name because
of their fondness for sitting in pairs while preening each other’s feathers. A few basic facts to remember about Love
Birds are, first, they are small in size, second, they originate from Africa and its adjacent islands and third, all Love
Birds are members of the parrot family. This stout little parrot with its short rounded tail, comprises a total of nine different
species. While some species are nearly as common as budgies, others remain as rare as the most elusive bird in the wild.
Dimorphics In Love Birds, three of the nine species
are dimorphic. A species is dimorphic if the cock is visibly different in color from the hen. The following three love bird
species, Madagascar, Red-faced, and Abyssinian, fall into this category.
Madagascar Love Bird, or Agapornis Cana, is also known as the Grayheaded
Love Bird. Cocks carry gray on the head, back of the neck and breast; a green body that is darker on the back and wings, black
underwing coverts, a whitish gray bill and pale gray feet. Hens differ from the cocks by being completely green. As might
be expected, the Madagascar Love Bird is from the island of Madagascar. It is also found in smaller numbers on some of the
neighboring islands and there have been isolated sightings on the mainland of South Africa. These birds have been freely imported
for well over a hundred years. Today, because of export regulations out of Madagascar, this species has become very rare. One
reason Madagascars are rare is that they are not prolific breeders. They are usually bred in pairs, which adds to the difficulty
of finding sufficient space. In the wild, they are found in very large flocks, however, captive breeding has not been generally
successful when colony breeding is attempted.
Red-faced Love Bird, or Agapornis Pullaria, is the second species
of dimorphic Love Bird. Cocks are colored birght green, and are more yellowish on the front and underneath. The face and crown
are orange-red, the flights and bend of the wing are green, and the shoulder and underwing coverts are black. The bill is
red, and the feet are gray. Red-faced Love Bird hens have more orange in the face, which is not quite as bright red, while
underwing coverts are green. The Red-faced has perhaps the longest expanse of territory of any of the love birds. It stretches
from the coastal regions of central Africa, all the way to western Ethiopia. The Red-faced is considered to be the first love
bird imported into Europe. The Duke of Bedford mentions that it was used in portraits as early as the 16th cetury. Considering
this long period in captivity, one would assume the bird to be well established and certainly, well understood. However, the
converse is true. There are few Red-faced Love Birds in captivity, and they have been bred on only a few occasions. Here in
the United States, only a handful of have had success with this species. In the wild, Red-faced lovebirds nest in termite
sites, however, in captivity, they have been bred using different methods. The key to breeding success appears to be in keeping
this species in single pairs.
Abyssinian Love Bird, or Agapornis Taranta, is also known as the
Blackwinged Love Bird. The cock is viridian green, the forehead, lores, and small ring of feathers around the eye, are carmine
red and the underwing coverts are black. Hens have no red on the head or eye area, their underwing coverts are green, but
variable to black with some green. The abyssinian is a high altitude dweller from Ethiopia. It was little known to aviculture
until this century and was first imported into the trade in the early 1900’s. Abyssinians are definitely a "single pair"
breeder.
Monomorphics The monomorphics include sexes which
appear visually alike. In Love Birds, it includes two categories, birds with a periophtalmic ring (a ring around the eye)
and those without a ring.
Eye-Rings Fischer’s
Lovebird, Agapornis Fischeri, both cocks and hens appear alike. Fischer’s Love Birds
are green, being darker on the wings and back, and lighter on the underparts. The forehead is bright orange-red, suffusing
to dark olive, with cheeks and throat a paler orange. The rump and upper tail coverts are violet blue. The bill is coral red,
the cere and bare skin around the eye is white and the feet are pale gray. In the wild, Fischer’s lovebirds are found
on the inland plateaus of northern Tanzania. In captivity, they breed freely and have been bred in large colonies.
Nyasa Love Bird, Agapornis Lilianae, is also called Lilian’s
Love Bird. Nyasa’a are green, paler on the underparts and darker on the back and wings. The head is bright salmon to
orange, brighter on the forehead, and paler on the cheeks, throat and upper breast. The core and ring around the eye are bare
white skin. The bill is red, and the feet are gray. The Nyasa is another Love Bird relatively new to aviculture. It was
not described until the late 1890’s by Miss Lilian Sclater, for whom it was named. However, it was not until the 1920’s
that it was imported. In the wild, Nyasas are gregarious, and found in groups of twenty to one hundred birds. In captivity,
they breed freely in colonies, as well as in cages. They are the rarest eye-ring in captivity.
Black-cheeked Love Bird, Agapornis Nigrigenis, are green, being
slightly darker than the Nyasa, and lighter green on the underparts and rump. The head appears brownish-black, the throat
salmon, the back of the head is yellowish-olive and the wings are darker green. The cere and the ring around the eye are bare
white skin. The bill is bright red and the feet are gray. The Black-cheeked is fond in the most restrictive areas. It is
located in two river valleys, one in southwest Zambia and the other in the Victoria Falls area of Zimbabwe. The Black-cheeked
Love Bird was similarly not described until the early 1900’s and was imported shortly thereafter. The birds are good
breeders, and can be bred in colonies.
Masked Love Bird, Agapornis Personata, has a generally green plumage,
with the head, including the lores and cheeks, brown to sooty black. A yellow collar, about half an inch wide at its narrowest
point on the back of the neck, is widest on the breast. The cere, and bare skin area around the eye, is white. The bill is
red, and the feet are blackish-gray. The Masked Love Bird is foind on inland plateaus in northeastern Tanzania. Discovered
in the late 1800’s, they were not imported until the 1920’s. Masked Love Birds breed freely in colonies. The blue
mutation occured in the wild, and was imported soon after its introduction.
Non-Eye-Rings Peachfaced
Love Bird, Agapornis Roseicollis, has an overall bright, almond-green plumage, which is yellow
on the underside, with a brilliant blue rump. The frontal band is a deep rose-red, and the lores, sides of the head, and throat,
are a paler rose-red. The bill is horn colored and greenish toward the tip. The feet are gray. The Peachfaced is found
in the dry country of South Angola. It was first found in the late 1700’s but was confused at that time with the Red-faced
Love Bird. In the wild, birds are usually found in groups of ten. In captivity, the are most prolific, to the point of domesticity.
Black-collared Love Bird, Agapornis Swinderniana, is also known
as Swindern’s Love Bird. The Swindern’s must be discussed differently from other Love Birds since it also includes
a distinct and separate sub-species. In Agapornis Swinderniana, the main body color is dusky green, lighter on the
cheeks and underparts, with a yellow wash on the throat. A narrow black collar on the nape, with a chrome yellow area below,
merges into the green of the back. The lower back, rump, and upper tail coverts, are brilliant blue; the underwing coverts
are green. The central tail feathers are green, occasionally with a red-orange spot; lateral tail feathers are bright red
towards the base, with a black bar and green tips. The iris of the eye is golden-yellow. The bill is blackish-horn and the
feet are dark gray. It is a dense forest dweller, found in Liberia and is considered to be rare in the wild. In Agapornis
Swinderniana Zenkeri, the yellow area below the nuchal collar is extended and is colored orange. It is also slightly brighter
green and slightly larger in size than A.s. swinderniana. A.s. zenkeri is found in the Cameroons, east of the central part
of Zaire. This particular subspecies was kept alive in Africa by a missionary named Father Hutsebour. He was able to keep
these birds alive on a diet of sycamore figs. However, when the birds were removed from this diet, they would die within three
days. They have never been successfully exported.
Selection Once introduced to Agapornis, the aviculturist
frequently decides to add this lively little hookbill to his or her collection of birds. While it tends to be hardy, its needs
differ from those of the softbill and even other hookbill birds. The best chance of selecting a perfect bird is to acquire
a young, Peachfaced Love Bird. The Peachfaced is one of the easiest love birds to keep. Its engaging personality and lively
manner will give you much entertainment. Choose a young bird, one with light markings across the brow, and if possible, dark
color at the base of the beak. A young bird adjusts more easily to you, your routine, and the diet you provide. The younger
the bird, the easier it is to tame and train.
Health The Love Bird’s health can be determined
partly by observation, and partly by the seller’s reputation. the bird should be alert, lively, sleek-feathered and
plump. Check both the eyes and the bird’s vent; the eyes should be clear, and the feathers around the vent should be
clean. Avoid the "tame" bird huddling on a perch with its feathers fluffed out, eyes closed, and head drooping or tucked under
a wing. Nature’s way is to hide weakness. By the time a bird displays signs of illness, it is often too ill to be helped. To
avoid introducing disease into you collection, any newly acquired bird should be quarantined in a separate part of the house,
away from other birds, for a minimum of thirty days. If your bird should show signs of illness, try to keep it warm and
quiet in a hospital cage. Feed it honey water, and make its favorite foods and seeds easily available. Try to feed it a warm
gruel. Ask the advice of an avian veterinarian, or an experienced aviculturist. Keep a supply of pet antibiotics on hand,
and learn how to administer them before a health problem arises.
Sexing Whether you choose one Love Bird for a pet, or
a pair, you will want to determine the sex of the bird. Generally, the hen has a broader head, shoulders, and pelvic span
than does the cock. The first two characteristics can be seen, the third, felt. to feel the pelvic area, hold the bird
with its back against your palm, with your thumb and little finger capturing the wings against the body. The head will protrude
between your second and third fingers. This leaves the belly area clear for you to insert your finger between the bird’s
legs. You should be able to feel two points of bone just above the tail. If the two points are extremely close together, the
bird may be a male. If you can almost insert your little finger between the points, it may be a female. You have a 50% chance
of being right!
Housing Choice of housing ranges from a parakeet cage
to an outdoor aviary. Your purpose for acquiring the Love Bird or birds will determine your choice. A Large parakeet cage
should be roomy enough for one bird, since your pet will be free part of each day. For breeding purposes, the double cage
(36"x15"x24" high) will do for a pair. The habit of chewing should be considered if you build your own cage. Wood parts should
be wire covered, or else plan on replacing the as the bird destroys them. The Love Bird can be an escape artist. My first
Peachfaced was. He would slip head and shoulders between two bars, expel his breath, and wriggle forward a little. Then he
drew a deep breath and popped through the bars like a cork. He popped out at will, destroying everything he got his beak into. Because
of his chewing habit, the love bird must be seperated from all other types of birds. He is capable of maiming or killing any
bird smaller than himself. Never house them with finches, canaries, parakeets, or even cockatiels, if you value your other
birds. In addition to a cage, you need hoppers for seed, perches, and a watering device. Size and type of hoppers are determined
by the size of the cage. Provide various perch widths for the bird to exercise his feet. Hamster water tubes provide closed
systems which controls evaporation, hang outside the cage for easy servicing, and do not allow the birds to contaminate the
water. However, the bird must learn to drink from the tube, so also provide bowls of water at first. The tube must be checked
frequently, as a sticky valve will create a vacuum, withholding water from the bird. A good type of gravity flow open drinker
resembles a Mason jar turned upside down and screwed into a water dispenser.
Diet Once your bird has settled in its new home, feed
your bird a good basic seed mix of finch mix, parakeet mix, and wild bird seed. If you provide fresh, insecticide-free greens,
shredded carrot, and fresh corn kernels, you should not need to give vitamins, although vitamin supplements will not harm
the bird. High protien dry baby food is a good supplement. Cuttlebone and mineral block should always be available. Millet
spray is always a treat. Whatever diet you chose should be maintained, as the bird’s digestive system will adjust to
it.
Breeding The time may come when you and nature decide
it’s time for your Love Birds to breed. If possible, provide a group opportunity for birds to choose their own mates.
One male, plus one female, does not necessarily equal a breeding pair. In the autumn, provide a nest box measuring 6"x
6"x10", nesting materials, some privacy, and stand back. The birds attack the nesting materials, shredding them into strips
softened by chewing or soaking in water. Materials to provide include: palm fronds, newspaper, dried grasses and straw. Whatever
you use should be fibrous and uncontaminated by insecticides or pesticides. The Love Birds will stuff the box with these materials,
forming a tunnel through it to a cave-like opening. The hen typically lays 4 to 6 eggs and incubates the eggs for 21-24
days. If your pair lays 8 or more eggs, and incubates too long, congratulations, you have paired up two hens! In a true pair,
the cock helps to incubate, bu tspends much of his time guarding the nest box entrance. When the eggs hatch, both parents
feed the young. Provide foods that are easy for the parents to digest, such as dry high-protien baby cereal, oat groats, lukewarm
oatmeal, or nestling food. The babies fledge in five to six weeks and the parents continue to care for the young until they
are weaned two weeks later. If your birds allow the eggs to cool, or the young to die, be understanding. Parenthood is
a shock to the bird with no prior experience to draw upon. By the second or third clutch, they should be able to care for
their young. While love birds will, as a rule, rest themselves, limit pairs to two, possibly three clutches of young per year.
Parenthood is hard on a bird.
Recommendations This article only touches on the basics
of selecting and caring for Love Birds. There are more complete publications available from your local pet store or library.
One of the best ways to become more knowledgeable, however, is to join a specialty bird club such as the African Love Bird
Society, an International society which devotes itself to the propogationand care of Agapornis. Members receive a bi-monthly
journal. Another excellent source of information is any bird club in your area. Not only will you meet other bird owners,
but you will have a wealth of information in the other members. You will never meet a friendlier, more helpful group then
the members of a bird club. They have faced the same experiences as you, and they’re eager to share what they’ve
learned.
Breeding Tips for Beginners
by Doug Bedwell
Welcome to tips for beginning breeders. This section of the site has been designed with novice
in mind, though even experienced breeders can probably find something of interest here. The information here is based primarily
on my experience with peachfaced lovebirds, though many of the ideas and principles will apply equally well for the other
common species.
 Spoon-feeding baby Nyasa lovebirds
I’ve organized this section by general topics. You can read through each one in the order
they are listed, or simply pick and choose the ones that interest you. If you are totally new to breeding birds, I would strongly
recommend that you read the first article "Do I really want to do this?" before moving on to other topics.
These articles are built around the way I house, care for, and breed my birds. Many breeders feel
that their system is the only "right" way to do things, and to some extent I am guilty of that prejudice as well. However,
I know breeders who manage aviaries which are very different from mine, and have terrific success. Sometimes these differences
are based on simple preference, sometimes on the facilities, budgetary considerations, or simply the location. My experience
has been working with a mid-sized indoor aviary in the American Midwest. A breeder managing a large outdoor aviary in Florida,
California, or elsewhere in the world will certainly enjoy advantages, and encounter problems, very different from mine.
There is an enormous amount to learn about raising lovebirds, but you don’t need to learn
it all at once. There is a lot of material here for you to sift through, and I hope to expand this section from time to time,
as there is so much to cover, and even after eight years of breeding lovebirds I am still learning new things all the time.
You can’t possibly learn everything there is to know before you begin, but it definitely helps to learn all you can.
Part II: Do I Really Want to Do This?
Breeding lovebirds can be a lot of fun. It can be educational, challenging, emotionally fulfilling, and addictive. It can
also be expensive, tiring, frustrating and heartbreaking. There are lots of good and bad reasons to get into lovebird breeding.
Some good reasons are that you're fascinated by birds and you want to learn more, you like losing sleep, and you have lots
of extra money that you're dying to spend on bird food, cages, cleaning supplies, and vet bills. If you're looking to get
into lovebird breeding to make money, I can't help you. Few lovebird breeders are able to break even on their birds, much
less turn a profit. And even fewer than that can make a living at it. Chances are you can make a lot more money working nights
at Taco Bell.
But if you still think breeding lovebirds might be for you, try to plan ahead. How seriously do you want to get into this?
Do you want to have only one or two pairs, or do you want a larger aviary? If your birds do start to hatch chicks, what will
you do with them? Do you have the time to hand-feed the chicks, or will you let the parents raise them? Are you going to sell
the chicks, and if so, where and how? Almost any experienced breeder will tell you that it is much more difficult to sell
birds than it is to raise them.
Make a plan for yourself and your birds. You can always change the plan if you need to, but it really helps to know what
your goals and limitations are. How many total birds do you want to have? Are there specific colors that you want to produce?
What birds will you need to do what you want to do, and where will you get them? Will you have any unrelated offspring to
breed into a second or third generation? How much will it cost to feed the birds you expect to have, and how many chicks will
you have to sell at what price to pay for that?
I always advise new breeders to start small. It is MUCH easier to increase the size of your aviary than it is to make
it smaller. Starting small gives you a chance to really learn about the birds, learn what to look for, and learn what you
really want. It is so easy to get overwhelmed very quickly. Many breeders burn out on the hobby within a few years because
they lost control of the size of their aviary, and it became too much work and stopped being fun.
The more thought and preparation you put into your aviary before you begin a breeding program, the more manageable and
fun it is likely to be.
Part III: The Rules
Whenever I encounter something new with my birds, whether it is a problem, a question, or something exciting and unexpected,
I have two rules for myself that I always strive to follow.
1. PAY ATTENTION.
2. TRUST YOUR OWN JUDGEMENT.
At first glance, these rules seem simple and obvious, and yet, I am astonished at how often I catch myself failing to
follow them. Almost any time I have a serious problem in my aviary, I can look back at what happened and see where I’ve
failed to follow one or both of these two cardinal rules.
Rule #1: Pay Attention.
As Yogi Berra once said: "you can observe a lot just by watching." Take some time to actually watch your birds
interact with each other. I’m not talking about checking them out when you change their food and water. Actually
sit down from some inconspicuous vantage point and watch your birds’ behavior. Given a little time, the birds will
eventually start to ignore you, and start interacting with each other, and chances are that you’ll learn a lot about
how birds are doing, whether your pairs are getting along with each other, and what sort of dynamic is running through your
flock.
But even in your daily routine, you need to pay attention to details. Is the seed cup on one cage always totally empty
when you check it? Chances are good that the hen is kicking out all the seeds to make a little nesting spot for herself. I’ve
not had many hens lay eggs in seed cups, because the cup gets disturbed often enough that only a really tenacious hen will
feel comfortable laying eggs there, but It is very possible for a hen to starve herself or her mate by throwing out all the
seed so there is never any to eat. Adding a second seed cup, one too small for her to get into, can help prevent that sort
of tragedy.
This is just one example of the sort of thing that you can notice "just by watching." I could list other examples,
but it would be impossible for me to list them all, and useless for me to try. The point is that if you take the time to observe
your own birds, you can learn much more from them than you can from this website or any book about lovebirds.
Rule #2: Trust Your Own Judgement.
This is a hard rule to follow, especially when you’re not confident in your own knowledge or ability. Still,
it is absolutely crucial that you follow it. Remember that every lovebird is an individual, and no one knows your birds better
than you do. This doesn’t mean you shouldn’t seek the advice of books, veterinarians, or more experienced
breeders, but it does mean that you should carefully consider what advice seems right for you and your birds, and what advice
does not. It is a sad fact that there is almost as much bad advice available as good. Just because a book or another breeder
has told you something, it doesn’t mean it is right for your birds. If you find yourself questioning something someone
has told you, make the effort to find out more. If it still doesn’t seem right to you, it probably isn’t
right for your birds.
Read and learn from every book you can, but always remember that what you learn from your own birds is more important
than what you learn from any other source.
Part IV: Cages and Cagewire
Cage sizes and styles are often as different as the people who make or buy them. There is no consensus on the "right"
size cage for breeding lovebirds. The principle that "Larger is Better," probably holds true, but there is enormous
disagreement on how large is large enough. As I've mentioned elsewhere, my experience is with indoor aviaries in the American
Midwest. Obviously an outdoor aviary can accomodate larger cages, and in most situations the available space will place some
limits on cage size and design. See the article on The Aviary for more on this topic.
I do not colony breed my birds. I set up my caging so that every breeding pair has its own separate cage. There are many
advantages to this system. For one, there is no question as the the parentage of chicks that are produced. This is important
for several reasons. When I am working with color mutations, it is easier to keep track of which chicks carry which recessive
mutations. Also, when I am breeding successive generations, I am able to avoid uneccessary inbreeding. Another advantage of
the one pair per cage system is that it reduces the potential for violence in the aviary. Tempestuous birds can’t
get into fights withl each other if they are in separate cages.
A disadvantage of the one pair per cage system is that it takes more room, more cages, and requires more maintenance time
than a colony situation. Still, I feel that the advantages of a one pair per cage system greatly outweigh these inconveniences.
My breeder cages measure 30" long x 14" high x 14 inches deep. I have two six inch square doors on the front.
A water dish hangs on the inside of one door, a seed cup on the other. Having the cups on the doors provides two advantages.
First, it makes maintenance simpler, since I rarely have to actually reach into the cage. Secondly, by hanging the dishes
so that they are closed in the door, I can make it (nearly) impossible for a feisty bird to pull them down and dump out the
contents.
Now, I’m certain some of you are thinking "30 inches long? That’s TINY!" While others of
you are probably thinking "30 inches long? That’s HUGE!" All I can say is that this size cage has been
successful for me. I know breeders who keep their birds outdoors in cages 6 feet long, I know others that use breeding cages
less than half the size of mine. I like a 30" cage because it is a manageable size for an indoor aviary, but still provides
room for the birds to actually FLY from one end to the other. Certainly the birds have several perches and toys to climb on
and around, but lovebirds are excellent flyers, and having enough space to fly is, I feel, beneficial to their health in both
the short and the long term.
If you plan to make your own cages, it is important that you get suitable wire. I make my cages from 1"x1/2"
steel wire mesh. Some books will tell you that 1"x1" wire mesh is "ideal" for lovebirds. Do not believe
them. A lovebird can get its head through a 1" square hole, though it cannot get its body through one. In that sort of
situation if a bird becomes startled and tries to get away quickly it can very easily break its own neck in the wire. Birds
can also get themselves lodged in the wire, or bruise themselves struggling to get out through an opening that is just slightly
too small. It is very easy for a lovebird to seriously injure or kill itself on cagewire that is too widely spaced.
Another underpublicized danger to many birds is the zinc coating used to galvanize most wire mesh. Most wire mesh is galvanized
by "dipping" the steel mesh into molten zinc. This process is called "galvanized after welding" because
the wire is welded into a mesh first, then galvanized. This creates a thin coat of zinc over the entire mesh, seams and all.
This sort of wire poses a threat to birds, because the zinc coating can crack and flake off of the steel wire, and be ingested
by the birds. It is very possible for a bird that chews on its cage wire to ingest a lethal dose of zinc in a very short time.
The type of wire to use for building breeding cages is what is called "galvanized before welded" wire mesh.
In this type of wire, the individual steel wires are electroplated with zinc before they are welded together. This leaves
a microscopically thin layer of protective zinc on the wire. This layer is actually bonded to the steel, and will not flake
off like dip galvanizing, and does not pose a threat to birds.
If you are purchasing wire for birds, inspect the type of wire you are buying. If you can see where the seams in the mesh
were welded, it’s galvanized before welded wire. If you can’t see the seams or the welds, you are dealing
with dip galvanized wire, and it is probably better avoided.
If you really want to minimize the time you have to spend with your daily cleaning and feeding routine, and price is not
an object, then purchasing cages is probably the way to go. Most of the cages sold in pet stores are alright for birds in
a pet situation, but really aren’t ideal for breeding. Breeder cages are available in a variety of sizes, can be
stacked and secured together into large racks and will typically be expandable, so that you can connect two or more small
cages together to make a larger cage. Also, unlike most pet cages, they will be designed to accomodate a nestbox.
Good quality breeder cages are available by mail order from a number of different aviary suppliers. Many of the vendors
advertise through the major bird magazines. Price, size, and quality vary widely, so take some time to shop around. I would
recommend that you try for cages that are at least 24" long and 12" square, and larger than that if at all possible.
Although cages become more expensive as they get larger, you will be rewarded with stronger and happier birds.
In addition to your breeding cages, you will want to have some larger "flight cages" to house groups of birds
that are not in breeding situations. I will typically house juveniles together, because juveniles tend to get along better
than adult birds. I do know breeders that segregate their flights by gender, which may reduce the potential for conflict as
well. I do not sex all of my birds, and will usually put a group in a flight together and let their behavior tell me which
are hens and which are cocks. In either event, a larger flight will give your non-breeding birds a larger flight space, and
an opportunity for more social interaction than in a breeder cage. I have several flight cages in a range of sizes, but 30"x30"x24"
is probably about the average size. Again, some breeders will have much larger cages than this, others will have smaller,
and others will have no flight cages at all. I have found that flight cages are a convenient way to house and care for a larger
number of birds, especially juveniles.
“So take your time when shopping for a bird cage. Shop around your local pet store or search for bird cages
online.”
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